Friday, April 16, 2010

The Arc de Triomphe getting a face-lift











Recently a grand clean-up project for the four pillar sculptures of the Arc de Triomphe was started. Four teams are working around the clock to clean and restore the four sculpture groups that are featured on the famous arch: "Le Départ des volontaires de 1792" (known as La Marseillaise and the most famous of the monument's reliefs), by François Rude; "Le Triomphe de Napoléon de 1810", by Jean-Pierre Cortot; and "La République ou la Résistance de 1814" and "La Paix de 1815", by Antoine Etex. They hope the cleaning will be complete in time for the commemorative events marking the anniversary of Charles de Gaulle's "appeal of June 18". Now we only have the scaffold to enjoy in our photos.

"Le Départ des volontaires de 1792" Blindfolded for the cleaning.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Cy Twombly ceiling at the Louvre


I knew that it was happening, but didn't pay attention to the room being closed for a few weeks over the winter months. Last week I found myself passing through the Louvre museum's "Bronze Room" to find the newly unveiled painted ceiling by the American artist Cy Twombly. This is a large, major work. (400 square meters) It is a fun addition for the museum. Though I'm never sure if the money paid for a modern work belongs at the Louvre. This winter there were strikes at the National Museum of Modern Art, the Pompidou Center. I'm sure that the Pompidou could use the financing this grand Twombly cost the state. This Cy Twombly work is titled "The Ceiling". The painting is a lovely deep blue with odd disk shapes and names of ancient Greek sculptors. (In the very next room there is a painted ceiling by the artist Georges Braque in the 1950s). There are two other recent contemporary works to be found in the Louvre. One by the French artist Francois Morellet is called "L'esprit d'escalier". This doesn't look like much in the stairway of the Louvre compared to the Twombly or to the work by German artist Anselm Kiefer. The Kiefer is a large installation sitting in the stairwell that links the Egyptian and the Mesopotamian antiquities at the museum. Check out the article in the New York Times about the Kiefer work.



Twombly said he was inspired by the blues of early Italian Renaissance artist Giotto, "I was just thinking of the blue with the disks on it, it's totally abstract... I put all the great Greek sculptors' names on the top. It's that simple."

Saturday, February 6, 2010

The Glorious Land of Acabo


One of my favorite websites to visit about the love of food and all sweet things in Paris is David Lebovitz's, "living the sweet life in Paris". In his long list of Paris wonders I found "the best candy shop in Paris". It is called, A l'Etoile d'Or. One day some of my favorite visitors asked if I could take them to this wonderful shop. This shop is run by a grown woman in pigtails by the name of Denise Acabo. She has to be one of the sweetest women in Paris - in more ways than one. On this first visit Ms. Acabo saw the instant love for what she sells in her shop as soon as we walked through the door. She then gave us the grand tour of all of the special things sold in her "golden star" shop. Madam Acabo specializes in all of the best quality products direct from various regions in France. She tells tales of each of these classic candies explaining how they were produced and even the history behind these sometimes unusual things: Calissons, Bergamottes, Graines d'Anis, caramels (like none I've ever enjoyed), traditional nougat, and of course chocolate. One of the great chocolate specialties she has in her shop is creations from Bernachon. This is one of the few chocolates in the world located in Lyon that still makes the chocolate completely from scratch. So many of theses wonderful creations are made from recipes centuries old. Madam Acabo took great pleasure in explaining where each originated and how they were made. You’d be amazed, we were.


The grand finale for me was when she opened the large glass case of specialty chocolates in the center of her shop. There were too many wonders to behold. On my first visit I left the store spending many more euros on chocolates then expected. Later in the day I would use my chocolates almost as a bribe to get information. I've been back to the l'Etoile d'Or shop - down the street from the Moulin Rouge - nearly five times since the holidays.


Denise Acabo’s love of what she sells is inspirational. She explains how much she loves good things and good food. She spoke of only wanting things of the highest quality in her life. I saw proof of this over the weekend when I spotted her at my favorite food market in the city. The Sunday “Bio”/ organic market located on the opposite side of the city from where I live. This market has some of the very best food in the city. I try to make the effort to go there when I can each week. When I saw Madam Acabo there this past weekend I felt like I saw a movie star. I wanted to run up to her to say hello, but I just stood back to watch her in the action of shopping for the good food she spoke of loving.


So many people have written about Denise Acabo already. I just couldn't resist.


Denise Acabo
L’Étoile d'Or
30, rue Pierre Fontaine
75009 Paris